A lot of stuff on there without screwing it up.
A reminder of how varying color intensity in color schemes can be awesome.
Love that simple logo combining tall and narrow type and squat and wide type.
The tiny banner in the logo and big banner with the dates give it dimensionality it might not otherwise have.
I like it when text looks actually old time instead of fake old time. In this case, on a site with a combination of both. The whole experience works really well, if a bit overplayed (GET IT?!) these days.
Pretty sweet experience on the whole, watching an email go through Google's servers.
I kinda like that collage like style of simple illustration and monotone photographic stuff.